Watch Wonders Never Cease

For the second year, Switzerland's annual watch fair Watches and Wonders Geneva has closed. This leaves retailers, consumers, and weary critics to peruse hundreds of references looking for signs of excellence, trend, and, to be more precise, desirability. Although there was a strong turnout from almost 50 Geneva watch companies, major players such as Dior, Audemars Piguet and Louis Vuitton were absent. We should also look at some of their offerings.

Wait in line

Prospective buyers are becoming more familiar with the concept of waiting lists for everyday luxury watches, which is anything that is not made-to-order or produced in small quantities. These four watches were unveiled at Watches and Wonders Geneva, but you might be interested in one of them.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6007G

The brand led the watch industry revival of the past twenty-five years almost entirely by itself ('You never actually owned a Patek Philippe ), it has remained a bit stuck in its ways. The Swiss giant's Aquanaut and Nautilus models are the only watches that modern buyers might choose to wear, rather than keep as insurance policies. Last year, a pair Calatrava white gold Calatrava models were fitted with calfskin nubuck straps. This year, a third group of sporty-ish watches is available, distinguished by their yellow, red, or blue detailing. They are round and youthful but still have a white gold case. This is why they cost so much for a wristwatch with a date-only function on a leather strap. $37,850

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A. Lange & Sohne Odysseus Chronograph

A. Lange & Sohne, like all watch brands in Richemont's stable, is very tight-lipped about any figures that could affect the group’s share price. Collectors would love to know how many Odysseus watches were produced since the model was introduced four years ago. A few estimates put the production figure at three, despite the fact that there is a lot of demand. Lange, as it is commonly called, seems happy to keep playing with potential buyers. It will introduce a chronograph version its first series-produced stainless bracelet watch, which will be limited to 100 pieces. This is not your average chronograph. Its running and chronograph seconds hands are centralized, which allows for brand's date and day of the week indications. You can hear the excitement of lusting collectors. Prices subject to change

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Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface

Vacheron Constantin is a rare brand among established watch brands. The company's roots date back to 1755 and has experimented with partnerships with Abbey Road Studios, Louvre, and other watchmakers. This gray and pink-gold number is a convincing paradigm. It features a tourbillon, a retrograde date and a 180-degree tourbillon. The watch has a distinct, sober look. It is enhanced by the dial's openworked elements. This decorative approach was first used by Vacheron over a century ago. Prices available upon application

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Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Feerie Or Rose

The number of prizes a brand wins at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve is one of the most telling indicators of high-end watchmaking success. Van Cleef won two prizes in November and was considered a top contender for the top prize. This is a testament to its poetic complications, which it calls, winning hearts and minds. It was notable that the innovation prize was won by a women's watch, which is not a common award for toys for boys. The enchanting Lady Feerie Or Rose is a watch with a fairy-tipped wand that points out the minutes. This dreamlike scene has been colored in dusky rose using a variety of metiers-d'art techniques including plique-a–jour enamel. It has no backing to allow light through, which is French for "letting in daylight". Another stunning piece. Apply for the price

Variety Store

Watchmaking's undisputed trend is that mechanical watches are now being produced in smaller quantities and selling at higher prices. Although this might limit the sector's value, it is encouraging some creatives to use their imaginations in an effort to grab our ever-wanting attention with more and more innovative watches. However, not everyone is on board. These eight models help to explain the diverse nature of this year's new models.

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Louis Vuitton Tambour Op Automata

Louis Vuitton's Tambour Carpe Diem 2021, the watchmaking tour de force, returns as a Bian Lian mask. This mask is a characteristic of Sichuan opera in China. It's difficult to see its complexity when viewed in two dimensions. The case's mechanism is activated by turning a latch. Its dragon's head slides to reveal a jumping hour display. Its tail points to a retrograde minute display. Apply for a price

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Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph

The Swiss Made Octo Finissimo has been used by the Italian company since 2014 to help achieve its high-end watchmaking ambitions. It also won industry awards and world records for thinness. Its challenging design is not for everyone. The Roma has a more wearable silhouette and a chronograph for the first-ever time. It's a winning combination. $9,150

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph

If you can imagine, Audemars Piguet used to be a master at horology and not a master at hype. This would bring you back to late 1990s with the "End of Days", a black-P.V.D. The Royal Oak Offshore, a beefy Royal Oak Offshore was made for Arnold Schwarzenegger in 1999. It was used in vapor deposition (physical vapor desposition). This arrangement fueled a culture that included celebrity endorsements and collaborations with Audemars Piguet, and contributed greatly to the popularity of high-end watchmaking today. For the 30th anniversary, the watch will be available in a 500-piece edition made of hard-wearing black ceramic. However, it won't include the Austrian Oak. $60,300

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Gucci 25H Skeleton Flying Tourbillon

It is not unusual for luxury fashion brands to make a mark in fine watchmaking. Gucci isn’t new to the market, but it hasn’t had the same impact as Chanel, Hermes Bulgari, Bulgari, or Louis Vuitton. There are signs that Gucci is working to change this with a new collection of high-watchmaking collections inspired by the cosmos. This skeletonized flying tourbillon version, the urbane 25,H, is one of the 2023 pieces. It's also one of four gorgeous pieces in white gold with rubber straps. Prices upon application

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Louis Erard Excellence Marqueterie

Some watch brands don't have high prices that are too expensive. Louis Erard decided to make the impossible accessible, specifically metiers-d'art watches. These watches are typically made at a high cost and in low quantities by established makers like Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe. This mechanical piece's dial features a miniature wood marquetry technique, which is a kind of tiny wooden mosaic. Each one will have a Bastien Chevalier dial. $4,900

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Dior La D My Dior

It has been a key factor in the longevity of Dior and its appeal, its ability to reinterpret codes. The new La D My Dior collection's cannage (or woven cane) pattern echoes the details of the Napoleon III chairs in its flagship boutique at 30 Avenue Montaigne in Paris. These chairs were used by guests to view the introduction of Dior’s New Look on February 12, 1947. Talk about connections. This is the 25-millimeter model in gold. $48,000

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Gerald Charles Maestro GC Sport Clay

Swiss watchmaking has been a long-standing association with tennis. However, not all brands recommend wearing watches on the court. Delicate mechanics and rifled backhands aren't compatible. Gerald Charles claims that the GC Sport version its oddball Maestro was tested by ATP Tour players. It came out unscathed. Gerald Genta has two new additions to their Gerald Genta legacy model, which includes textured and colored dials that are linked to the upcoming clay- and grasscourt tennis seasons. $19,000

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Nomos Glashutte Club Campus

The German independent's moment came a decade ago amid an explosion of enthusiasm for accessible mechanical watchmaking. The story is moving on, but Nomos Glashutte's has not, pushing the brand somewhat into the shadows. This poor reflection on the watchmaking commentaryariat, which now clings to high-tariff watches, that ply the wheels of online searching. The brand's Alpha hand-wound movement costs $100 less than TAG Heuer’s quartz Formula 1. Although the new dials in electric green and cream coral may not be universally appealing, there are still other options. $1,500