brand new Yorkers which could pay for it fled the worlds coronavirus hotspot way back when for breezy backyards in Connecticut and the Hamptons. For those people put aside, the city has had on a post-Rapture vibe: the structures remain standing, nevertheless the crowds went.

The pre-eminent walking town is actually even more so. There is absolutely no one out of your path. We have started performing a grocery run that begins during the marvelous Morningside Park simply outside my apartment in Harlem, in the north of New york. This 13-block strip of green was created by landscape designer Frederick Law Olmsted, whom also created Central Park to the south.

But this one is nicer 20 acres of prime metropolitan property because of the environment of a neighbourhood typical which free from manic triathletes who will not decelerate. We just take the routes that serpent up a steep bluff of rock beneath a canopy of elms.

very long ignored, the park once had a reputation as a no-go location. When you look at the 1990s, pupils at nearby Columbia University were encouraged never to come-down right here. Some, but not the whole thing, ended up being racism. Crime in this traditionally African-American neighbourhood has very long since declined, and also the park, just like the roads around it, has actually gentrified.

It blooms with community-planted tulips and drifting flowers. A colony of kitties is set up to help keep the rat population down, with nests of red-tailed hawks.

The routes zip with young ones on scooters, residents of most ethnicities with pushchairs. A sunbather putting on just shorts and an N95 mask basks on a grassy mound.

Globetrotter neighbourhood stroll map in Harlem and Morningside Heights, New York

My trail takes myself past the dog playground, sealed down with yellow tape along with the playgrounds and tennis process of law to enforce social distancing during the pandemic.

Steps lead-up the slope to Morningside Heights, a district dominated because of the college and separated from main Harlem over the park by elevation, record, battle, wealth, tradition and all sorts of the typical items that divide Us citizens.

towards the top of the actions is 30 Morningside, a Beaux Arts conglomeration of deluxe apartment towers, landscaped home gardens and a restored carriage residence that symbolises what Harlem ended up being getting prior to the pandemic hit.

right here, a two-bedroom apartment rents for more than $7,600 per month about two times the typical earnings associated with the residents on the other side associated with playground. Deluxe apartments now line Morningside Avenue from the reduced level of the park besides.

It is anyones guess what takes place to that procedure for gentrification given that coronavirus has actually placed a pause on every thing. 30 Morningside sits entombed in scaffolding.

My course takes me as much as 116th Street and into Columbias quadrangle between its twin libraries. The university has been one of many drivers of Harlems revitalisation, not all of it welcomed by locals.

The university features bought acres of land around right here for a $6.3bn northward development (yes, thats bn for billion), gobbling up residential streets, completing programs, vehicle washes and commercial devices, displacing people and companies, and placing Renzo Piano-designed science structures inside their spot.

From the university we go out onto Broadway. In the spot a person in a type of top-hat with a cane is carrying out a sermon, but their audience is practising a serious form of personal distancing from him.

brand new Yorkers are friendlier than their reputation recommends, so self-isolation will not come naturally. But they are also neurotic, so mask-wearing had been accepted quickly. Along Broadway, we have all one.

The following is in which things begin to get weird. Its nyc like youve never seen it: boarded-up stores, individuals walking strolling!All along one of many longest streets on earth, from Bowling Green towards the Bronx, through shuttered theatre area and Times Square, past empty skyscrapers, the lights went call at the town that never sleeps.

The bustle was replaced by an aimless meander between your obviously random smattering of shops considered by nyc to-be crucial: takeaway coffee stores, obviously, but also animal manufacturers, which dole down emergency snacks from their entrances towards citys vest-wearing labradoodles.

we take my invest the waiting line outside H-Mart, my favourite Korean grocer. The businesses along this strip that cannot fall straight back on e-commerce have actually resorted to an old-school way of staying in touch with regards to consumers: homemade indications rule.

Please have patience, beseeches a note in the closed-door of Book customs, a beloved New york bookshop which was on shaky ground before the pandemic. The billowing advertising in the Heights Bar & Grill provides takeaway frozen margaritas.

The gold Moon Bakery declares: many of us are in this together. However, there was a tiny group of People in the us who think the pandemic is a story by an elite (Soros, the Clintons...take your pick) to depopulate the world and seize its scarce resources for it self.

It is difficult to see what could be gained; there is no one around, nevertheless still have to queue to go into the supermarket.

Map by Liz Faunce

located in nyc in stay-at-home order? Share your expertise in the comments

With life under lockdown or greatly restricted, our focus has actually sharpened on neighbourhoods we live in. See more stories similar to this at ft.com/globetrotter