Consider tods, and people mind straight away conjures up the brands trademark gommino: acaressingly smooth 340 fabric loafer with anything bar and pebbled outsole. recognisable but discreet, on the decades this has garnered fans from diana, princess of wales, to eddie redmayne. it's also the inspiration where diego della valle, tods chairman and ceo while the grandson of its creator has generated among italys largest fashion teams, with annual revenues of 916m and a portfolio that spans roger vivier, hogan and fay.
Final autumn, della valle made a bold move around in hiring the well-credentialled but little-known walter chiapponi since the first innovative director to oversee the entire tods brand through the womens and mens selections to shoes, handbags and marketing and advertising. chiapponis task, della valle said at the time, had not been to remake tods as a millennial-friendly streetwear label, greatly embossed with logos, but to combine tods italian life style with a little modernity, without dropping picture associated with high quality and craftsmanship that representsthe companies dna. advancement rather than change, in otherwords.
The 42-year-old designer made their formal debut on 21 february, showing his very first womens collection at milan fashion week. these time, northern italy started initially to turn off. the whole world totally ended, chiapponi recalls four months later on from their house in milan, where he life with his two dogs in (from little i am able to glean over zoom) a sleek, visual apartment lined with industrial-style bookshelves and significant art volumes. it was perhaps not the post-debut special event he had expected but nonetheless, he was happy. the very first show had been very relaxed, really instinctive, effortless isurprised myself such.
Comfortable, instinctive, effortless allwords that could affect the collection, with its roomy, wide-wale corduroy pants, boxy blazers and slouchy wool jumpsuits. the palette ended up being earthy, wealthy; the textiles and leathers tactile, plush. we were holding advanced, unfussy garments this one would never need wriggle and cinch yourself into. chiapponi could not have imagined that much of europe and north america would shortly be working at home for months on end. this was just the garb to put on in lockdown and growing from this.
The clothes in addition advised an alternative way of working at tods. the collection included a patchwork leather coat and separates madeout of fabric leftovers from tods factories. for me, durability is very important. everyone loves creatures im vegetarian, he claims. i ask exactly how he reconciles that with his work on a leather goodshouse. we take to perhaps not touse unique animal [skins], he states.
His first has been wellreceived. we love thesimplicity and high quality in the ready-to-wear, claims tiffany hsu, fashion purchasing director of deluxe etailer mytheresa. walter has brought a sense of childhood and a more modern, minimal aesthetic to your brand name that is really modern, without dropping its heritage. chiapponi defines himself as a hands-on designer. he finds sketching a bit old-fashioned, and loves the physicality of manipulating agarment on a mannequin. usually hell start by asking an in-house tailor to reduce a toile in asimple layer form. then i begin to reduce, spot, place things collectively, actually literally, quite definitely with my hands, he claims, pressing their fingers collectively as ifpinning an item of fabric.
Raised in a little city 45 mins outside milan, in which heenjoyed a completely independent childhood, chiapponi at first studied art. it had been in paris, ironically sufficient, he became contemplating italian fashion, energised by the catwalks of versace therefore the up-and-comers domenico dolce and stefano gabbana. he returned to italy to analyze fashion under alessandro dellacqua in the european institute of design.
Chiapponi would ping-pong between the two countries throughout the after that 2 full decades, going to paris to be design director of givenchy upon riccardo tiscis appointment in 2005. i was a more bourgeois fashion designer before; he changed me a great deal, he states of tisci. he visited rome for extends at gucci (a fun location to work, as you can see today inside garments, he says), before going back again to milan to focus at valentino, then for 3 years at miu miu alongside miuccia prada. she's ideal, he states. each time she stated some thing it launched your thoughts.
Whenever della valle emerged calling, chiapponi had been studio director at bottega veneta for three years, first under tomas maier then under new designer daniel lee, the latter an interval hedescribes as quite intense. strangely enough, chiapponi claims he never considered working at tods, mostly because brand had been known for leather-based goods along with his background is within ready-to-wear. however the mixture of della valles appeal (i totally fell so in love with him his amazing flavor for art and architecture, for an easy method ofliving, he says) and expansive role won him over. asdid the real history of tods. inthe80s and 90s it had been the footwear become cool it had a really advanced, intellectual [customer], folks from the cinema, from the aristocracy, butalso from gianni agnelli tobasquiat, he states. and i also thought, im within my 40s, its agood time to really show myvision.
Chiapponis task today isto cement that vision. it helps, he says, that he managed to begin from surface zero that he does not have to be influenced by home rules because, besidesthe gommino loafer, you can find none.my approach was to result in the clothes of the perfect tods customer, hesays for the very first collection. that meant the most perfect trench coating, coat, trouser and imbuing it all with a sense of italian good flavor. just what chiapponi isn't enthusiastic about is luxury streetwear. had been planning disappear completely from showing off, from way too many logos, from powerful colours, he predicts. he speaks admiringly regarding the youngpeople inside the studio, who worth preciousness and garments with tradition. some of my prada coats ive had for 12 to14 many years, he adds. i must say i wish to achieve those forms of values.
Chiapponi and della valle have their work cut out for them. before the pandemic sent the luxury-goods business into a tailspin, sales at tods had seen four several years of decreases. its stocks have lost approximately half their particular worth over the past 12 months.
Tods, we point out, is known as a lot more of alifestyle than a style brand name. how does thatinform their approach? style if you ask me isnot becoming on trend every season; manner is a meter for the time, including maintain how we are dressing. its a large step [up from past roles], he goes on. before, i was performing many fixtures, taking care of color palettes today i just tell other people to accomplish this. myjob is to coordinate to have all of these men and women talking similar language.